Fear
-by Alpha Climbing CEO Aaron Hjelt
Facing fear is the single greatest challenge of an athlete.
Fear is a menacingly savage beast, guarding our path to success.
It is also the shepherd who protects us from injury, humiliation, and loss.
So much has been said about fear:
“Don’t let your fears stand in the way of your dreams.”
“We have nothing to fear but fear itself.”
"Courage isn't the absence of fear, but the triumph over it."
Etc., etc.
As rational, yet egocentric living beings, fear helps maintain the preservation and progression of our species. But as performance-driven athletes, it threatens to stand in the way of achievement. “Fear” is a blanket term, in that it describes a myriad of emotions and responses. As athletes, we might be afraid of:
-failing, either at a physical level or by an established and/or perceived level;
-injury, from overuse, accident, or uncontrolled circumstance;
-the unknown;
-wasting time, energy, and/or other resources for the pursuit of achievement;
-pressure to establish greater performance standards;
-stress in all forms;
-discomfort, pain and other adverse physical conditions that occur from training and performance; and,
-agony, heartbreak, disappointment, and other adverse mental/emotional conditions.
For the ambitious climber/athlete, fear serves us by:
-mitigating risk by forcing us to step back in order to evaluate consequences, and to take reasonable action to minimize further setback;
-creating a “throttle” to conserve energy;
-opening communication with partners, when concerns arise for each others’ safety and well-being; and/or,
-supporting positive outcome influenced decision-making, as hesitation creates more time to decide.
On the flip-side, fear detracts from these benefits by:
-preventing opportunities due to hesitation;
-minimizing learning potential by reducing repetition;
-preventing advancement in training regimen because of increased discomfort and/or discipline;
-exposing the vulnerability of our ego;
-stifling curiosity and creativity; and/or,
-allowing irrationality to dictate thoughts and actions.
Fear is a double-edged sword. It is absolutely critical to our self-preservation, and at a very individual level, it’s what creates the barriers that make achievement so satisfying. It is, in many ways, the very essence of what it means to be an athlete. The paradox of its force can be unbearable, though: go too far beyond fear, and the consequences might prevent future participation; shy away from it, and we might not ever realize significant accomplishment or improvement.
How can we exist with fear with this paradox in mind?
Preparation is the first step. We train to ready ourselves for better performance. Our weaknesses are examined in order to be minimized. Resources are acquired and considered. Planning and organization help eliminate mishaps or oversights. The more prepared we are, the more likely we are to achieve performance. From a logistical perspective as a climber, there's a fair amount to consider here. Of course, the physical preparation takes priority. But the lack of logistical and tactical development can often be the most fear-inducing. When facing the unknown, being caught without the appropriate tools and techniques is terrifying. Showing up to a gun fight without a pistol would be a death wish. With climbing, we must also be armed.
Adequate preparation also allows for a more relaxed delivery during performance. Grace and ease proliferate when we feel ready. “Laugh in the battlefield, cry in the dojo” is a quote I’ve seen that describes the importance of disciplined training. Training isn’t always fun. It’s frequently grueling, uncomfortable, and inconvenient. However, when we go to perform, then feel the ease of putting it all out there, we often laugh with joy.
Fear can be trained in the same way that strength can be developed, using a methodical cycle of stress and rest. Since fear is primarily a condition of response, introducing it gradually, yet consistently, while increasing volume and/or intensity, should increase the relative “comfort” level, given that adequate rest is available in between sessions of exposure. There’s really no secret here. Physical training might prepare us to meet our potential, but unless there is a trained adaptation to the fear component of the project, we will not succeed.
There is such thing as “try.” Trying is making a move forward, where otherwise, there would be no progress. Athletic performance cannot exist without attempting movement. The process involved with achieving success might be constructed of a seemingly infinite number of attempts, in the form of training drills, added minutes/hours, weight, force, and all of the other experience that informs us how to master a skill. Success exists within this process, not just in the end result. Knowledge gained here helps to push away the fear of the unknown.
Accepting that failure is a component of the “try” process is critical. Although this is a Catch-22 (since the fear of failing can be paralyzing), conditioning this response through adaptation allows for greater projects to be realized.
Repeating a movement can help release fear by allowing the movement to become more innate. When we have established a predictable outcome, we don’t fear the consequences. Even the most basic skills required to perform can be made easier over time, and be returned to for review. As the athlete’s skill set is mastered closer to the performance threshold, ease and grace replace fear and hesitation. Repetition also builds trust in the safety system, equipment, and our partners.
Finally, and perhaps the most important component of managing fear, is to cultivate the passion we hold as athletes. The love we have for climbing creates opportunities. It fosters joy. It delivers satisfaction. An athlete’s most effective weapon, with which to fight fear, is passion. Insurmountable challenges can be approached if enough passion is present. Passion spurs desire, motivation, optimism, and resiliency. It pushes us forward when failure seems to be the only outcome. It brings us back to try harder, after enjoyment is gone. When it just isn’t fun to train, to put in another attempt, or to simply show up, passion guides us around these obstacles.